Knife Sharpeners, The World's Finest


Professional Knife Sharpening

By master knife maker and expert sharpener Lyle Brunckhorst of Bronk's Knifeworks








Q&E: Some Questions that I have tried to answer lately





What is the difference between the following systems

Edge pro, apex pro and EZE sharp systems

Thank you,
Walter Wright


The Edge Pro Apex is manufactured via injection molded nylon product. It is
very easy to learn and will give a very accurate and sharp edge. You need
both hands to use it however, one for holding the blade and one for running
the stone over the blade. The stone is guided by the guide rod running
through a fully adjustable nylon guide.

The Edge Pro Professional is machined from aluminum and nylon and has a
couple of features such as a steel adjustable ramp that butts up to the
stone for a longer stone saving stroke and a place to attach a scissors
clamp. This system is more expensive and I do not offer it for sale, you
would have to talk Ben into making one for you.

The Edge Pro uses stones that are specifically made to work with the Edge
Pro systems and can be changed easily and quickly.

Unless you are sharpening knives and hair shears for a living the Edge Pro
Apex is all that you will ever need.

The EZE Sharp system is built from a totally different aspect in that you
clamp the knife into the system and can use both hands to guide the stone
over the blade via the guide rod running over the guide rollers. The blade
holder flips over so that you can sharpen both sides of the blade without
losing your settings.

The EZE Sharp uses full size double sided bench stones that mount into the
guide rods.

The EZE Sharp mounts very solid to the table or work bench with a built in clamp.



Hi Lyle,

thrilled with the sharpener!  Got the knack pretty quickly.
Something I would appreciate your opinion on.
The one knife I don't seem to get good results on is a 10" kitchen devil professional general use Chef's knife.
Some cheaper knives are like razor blades in comparison and as you would expect the Wusthof and Sabatiers are good also.
Would I be correct in assuming the type of steel used in these Kitchen Devils is a bit 'Micky Mouse'?
It has a fairly thick blade. I've tried honing from a shallow angle progressing up to a final increased angle with the 220 stone, finishing with the 600.
I don't seem to be able to see a burr. Is the burr always visible to the naked eye?
Thanks for your prompt attention.



I think that the key word here is thick.

Are you using the course stone at the angle that you want until the two facets meet at the edge? This is when the burr comes up.

If you do not continue at the correct chosen angle until the facets meet, changing to a finer stone will get you no where.

It is theoretical that very hard steel will not produce a burr, but then in most cases, the blade would be extremely brittle.
My guess is that the blade needs some thinning and although you can do it with a course stone and lots of work, you may want to have it professionally ground.



thanks, this makes sense.
I've since tried the 120 stone as you suggest on a shallow angle to start and obtained the elusive Burr!
I then took it up to the next level with same stone and finished off with the 220 and then the 320.
The result is excellent!
Your help is much appreciated. Rgds,



Thank you Lyle for the fast response,
What degree setting would you recommend I start out with for the 525?
24 degrees??
21 degrees??

Ben recommends 19 to 21 degrees for kitchen and pocket knives and 23 degrees
or more for chopping blades. Any thing less than 19 is getting delicate and
anything over 21 or 22 degrees is not so sharp.

If you find that you are chipping the blade during your normal use, increase
the angle a bit to increase the durability. And vise versa, if you are not
getting the cutting performance that you would like, decrease the angle a

I would recommend that you start out at 19 or so to start however I have been sharpening most blades, for myself, at about 17 degrees and find that I like this edge very well but it pays to use a light touch with the knife.


I just bought a Shun Classic Santoku Knife and I read on some newsgroups
that they are very difficult to sharpen and that you must use the proper
type of sharpening or you will ruin them, so my question is:  is the Edge
Pro the proper type of sharpening system to properly sharpen my Shun Classic
Santoku Knife ???

Best regards,
John Cole



The Edge Pro was made for this kind of knife.

The Shun classics are great knives but require some care in handling as they
are very thin and brittle on the edge. So don't cut frozen foods or bone.

Properly used these knives will hold an edge for a very long time but do
need to be sharpened when they start to go dull.

I would not consider using the electric sharpeners as the edge becomes
uneven, the knives will wear out sooner and they never do become very sharp.

Any good sharpening stones used to sharpen knives will work with these
knives but you do need to practice with them so that you can hold the proper
edge angle.

The Edge Pro will sharpen these knives with ease and hold the proper edge
angle with great precision and with little danger of harming the blade. If
you want to retain the pristine pattern on the blade sides, I would
recommend using tape on the blade to keep the loose grit from scratching the
blade. Keep the tape back from the edge about a 1/4 of an inch so as not to
interfere with the stone.


I would like to know which knife sharpener you would recommend if you were
going to purchase it for yourself. Would you go with the EZE-sharp or the
What are the advantages of one versus the other?
                                                   Mark Day


I know how daunting it can be to choose a sharpening system, especially when
so many of them do not work very well and some can even ruin a good knife.

The Edge Pro does a fantastic job, is easy to carry, set up and store, easy
to learn and allows you to slide the blade along on the shelf in order to
accommodate long blades. It does require the use of both hands while sharpening.

The Edge Pro uses suction cups to hold it fast to the counter top and sets up in seconds.

The EZE Sharp mounts solid to a bench or table, holds the blade fast yet lets you
spin it around to the other side with ease and you can use both hands to
guide the full size bench stone over the blade with great accuracy.

I like both knife sharpeners because of the way they control the
edge angle and let you grind the blade as needed with the proper stones.

The EZE Sharp uses full size bench stones that are heavier to handle but can be handled with both hands and will last much longer than the small stones that come with the Edge Pro.

The stones that come with the Edge Pro are fairly small and the 120 and 220 grits will wear out fairly fast because they are open grained. The open grain will allow the stone to fracture and remain sharper and faster cutting therefore the wear. The 320 and 800 grit stones will last a long time (FOREVER) because they are closed grain and because it requires very little work with them to finish the edge.

These sharpeners are the most foolproof method of sharpening that I have ever seen and I  use them to sharpen some of the things around the shop that do not lend very well to the belt grinder.

I can get as good or maybe even better edge with these sharpeners as I can the belt grinder that I have used for over 30 years.

I consider the Edge Pro Apex system as the Ferrari of the sharpeners and the EZE Sharp the Mac truck.

The Edge Pro belongs in the kitchen or in the chefs carry to work gear.

The EZE Sharp can be at home in the kitchen or in the work shop.



I have read many testimonials of both of your sharpening products, which is your pick and why  also are the stones from both sharpener changeable as some say the edge pro stones are the best and the eze sharp is the best system, also what would be my total cost for each set up ready to do all types of knives
Ray Nicoll


I do like the EZESharp because it is cast from very sturdy aluminum and clamps down solid. It also clamps the blade and lets you work the stone and guide with both hands. Both sides of the blade can be sharpened without any changing of angles because of the flip over blade clamp. You can use any bench stone with it if is in the larger size category of 6 to 8 inches by one inch thick.

The Edge Pro Apex system is a well thought out machine and molded in sturdy nylon plastic. It folds up and stows well in the Cordova carry case. It is easy to use but does require the use of both hands in operation, one to hold the blade on the shelf and the other to glide the stone over the blade edge. You can sharpen a long blade by sliding the blade along the shelf as you sharpen.

For very small blades, the EZESharp needs a small modification to the holder and for the Edge Pro you need to swing the blade tip out over the shelf’s edge.

Both systems are very accurate and will let you obtain a very precise and sharp edge.

The EZESharp uses bench stones that will last a long time.

The Edge Pro uses thin stones and although the finer stones will last forever, the coarser stones will need to be replaced with use.


Question...I own the Shun Elite knives.
I purchased their electric sharpener made for their knives.

Is your device better? I just purchased them and don\'t need to sharpen them
but I want to make sure that when it\'s time...I\'m using the best device.

How is your device different and or better than using the electric models
sold in kitchen stores?



I would suggest that you try out that sharpener on some old knife that you
have little love for first and see if it does what you want it to.

If you can get the same kind of hair popping sharp edge with the sharpener
on the old knife without grinding an uneven edge with circular divots in the
blade, then you will know that you can sharpen the Shuns.

First off I doubt that you will be able to get anywhere close to that degree
of sharpness with it but the Edge Pro, or the EZESharp can very easily and
it will be easier to keep the edges straight and even.


Subject: Edge Pro Sharpener

I like your Edge Pro Manual Sharpener, although it is difficult to  understand the technique used to sharpen from the description.  I am  not a professional but have sharpened my own knives over the years  with various stones, using a diamond stone now.  Some of my knives  need the edge realigned and are dull.

I noticed that you are not currently recommending any of the motorized  units.  These would seem to be easier to use.

Do you feel the long term durability of these devices would be best in  the Edge Pro and is easy to use?

Ruben Lee
Key Largo FL



The technique is the same pretty much as using the stones alone except here
you move the stones over the blade and stroke the edge in any direction that
you feel is right. Most electric sharpeners have the potential of making a round divot in a
blade if you should hesitate or vary your motion as you drag the blade
through the sharpener.
It is very difficult to maintain a straight edge with the average electric
sharpener that will work on a chopping board because the tendency is to over
sharpen the edge next to the bolster.
The Edge Pro is easy to use and all of the finer stones will last a lifetime
or more. The coarser stones, 120 and 220 grit are open grained and will wear
from use and will need to be replaces as time goes by.
An even easier to use sharpener is the EZESharp system. It lets you clamp the blade firmly while you can sharpen
both sides with the flip over feature.


Subject: on the sharpeners


in your opinion which is better the edge pro or the ausie made ezesharp. i find the edge pro should only keep the same angle as the width of the base, about 2 inches then they show a video showing the hone go way past the platform but the ezesharp stone moves side to side to follow the length of the knife. I had a video along time ago about how the edge pro works but the short video on their web site shows it done differently, I am a bit confused. I have the razoredge guide system and I ruined really good knives with their teachings of grinding all the way up the grind of the knife, i should have used my own common sense. So which is better in your opinion. I sharpen sport, kitchen and military knives



You are correct in the fact that the edge angle will change some by swinging the stone to the side of the shelf. In fact any deviation of the guide from 90 degree angle to the shelf edge will result in a subsequent change in edge angle as well and will increase more as you swing out further. However this has not been a significant issue to obtaining a great edge.


As far as the motion of the stone in relationship to the edge goes, you should use the entire stone face with each stroke and let it travel along the edge some as you stroke.


And yes, you can ruin the looks of a knife by laying the blade flat to the stone, but it is one way to keep the blade from becoming too thick from sharpening.


I do recommend with any sharpener that you tape up a fancy blade to help prevent it from getting scratched during the sharpening process. It is also a good idea to use a cushioning material in the blade holder to prevent marring a blade.



I'm not sure what I need to order?

Do I need anything extra?
Does this come with a book or instructions that show how to use it?
How do you know which stone to use?

I've never used to stones to sharpen my knives so I'm counting on you
to let me know what I'm doing here :)

I'm ready to order ...I just don't know what I need.



Hi Vicki,

The EXE Sharp system comes with two stone holders with guide rods and a 4
inch flip over blade holder.

It does not include any stones but I do stock a couple of stones that will
work with the system very well.

The primary stone would be the India double sided combo that has a 120 grit
on one side for doing serious metal removal and a 320 grit on the other side
for removing the 120 grit scratches or sharpening a knife that needs little

The second stone that I carry is an Arkansas double sided combo that is
about 600 grit or so on one side and 1200 to 2000 grit on the other side.
This one will polish and hone the blade to a very sharp edge.


Paul Page wrote:


Lyle Brunckhorst,
      I've been looking at your web site at your great prices on the Edge pro A'vant-Garde package. My question is, you don't list the Edge pro Pro model that's on Edge Pro's web site. I can see that it's quit a difference in price. And you and most knife web sites don't sell the Pro system either. It this because the Pro model isn't with the money, over the Apex model ? Because the two models do the same on sharpening process ? I'm retired and would like to start a little knife sharpening trade with the snow birds in Florida. You have the best price on the web, I would just like to know weather difference in the Pro-Model is worth it. Thanks for your time and I will be placing an order with you.

                                                                                                                   Paul  Page



The Pro model is sold by Edge Pro Inc. only because there is no dealer discount on it.
The main advantage with it is the spring loaded stone holder and is faster to change grits.
It also can have the hair shears attachment added to it.

If you plan to sharpen a lot of knives, you may want to take a look at the EZE Sharp. It uses full size bench stones and will save you money on stones in the long run. It also is more solid unit clamped to a bench and allows the user to use both hands.

The EZE Sharp sells for $197.50 and the two stones sell for $24.95 120/320 grit combo and $43.90 for the hard/soft Arkansas stone for a total of $266.35 versus $375 for the EDGE Pro Professional. This is a saving of $108.65 for original purchase and having stones that will last many times longer than the Edge Pro stones.

The EZE Sharp also has an attachment for sharpening shears, chisels etc. and costs $49.95.

Edge Pro scissors attachment costs $95.00 but may be better suited to sharpen delicate hair shears.

Hope this helps




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Last modified: 08/31/08